The Quality

Mechanisms of Time

We sell two kinds of watches, automatic and quartz movements.
The quartz movement runs on battery, we use them only for two of our models : the chronometers.
The rest of the collection is using automatic mechanisms, which need no battery.

Tic-Toc and Time goes by…

In this topic, we will describe the fascination of mechanism that makes the watches work. The Automatic mechanism is self-powered, actually powered by the one who wears the watch. No other source of energy besides gravity is used, it is simply an infinite energy provided by the one who wears it.
Let us explain the basics of a piece of excellence, the automatic movement.

The Rotor :

Energy is required to revolve the hands of a clock/watch. In all cases the energy is provided by the gravity in itself, which is a form of energy that is endless. A movement that is said to be Automatic is using gravity as a source of power, it is said to be self-winded; its inventor is Perrelet, who in 1770 had created a pocket watch, equipped with a rotor able to arm the mainspring. It still took around a 150 years to adapt this great invention to wristwatches. The mainspring is a metallic strip coiled around itself and placed into a cylinder equipped with a cog-wheel. By wearing a wristwatch, one shakes/moves it in all directions all day long; therefore, the rotor is able to provide the mainspring with enough energy to move the hands and keep time.

From the Mainspring to time :

The transfer of the energy from the mainspring is distributed and controlled at a special rate that is actually a division of time into much smaller portions that are defined in oscillations/beats per hour. For instance, some of our watches are 21,600 oscillations per hour, some are 28,800 in this last case it means that every hour, the seconds hand will move 28,800. This accurate dosage is given by the regulating part, the oscillator, which then transmits energy using several wheels and pinions.

The oscillator is the heart of the mechanism, it is composed of the balance and the spring-hair. At each revolution, the balance allows the escapement to evolve which is where the Tic-Toc sound comes from. The balance spring is 4 times thinner than a hair, but can resist to twice the tension. Lengthening or shortening the balance spring defines the duration of the balance’s beats.

Power Reserve :

The power reserve gives useful information on how the barrel mainspring is armed, therefore on how much autonomy remains to power the watch, for both manual and automatic movements. In fact, it is not as useful for an automatic watch than for a manual that is only winded by turn the crown. (Only Automatic watches are made by ELYSEE)

Retrograde Display :

The retrograde function was brought back to the watch industry in the 1970’s. The Retrograde can be used for seconds, hours or minutes, however it is mainly used for the seconds hand; recently within two separated areas, one going from 0 to 30 seconds and another from 30 to 60 seconds, each showing an instant return to the starting position.

Moonphase :

Watches were first created to accomplish one goal, to measure time with accuracy. In fact, it was not only about displaying time. The moon phases display also needed a devoted invention. Watchmakers studied in astronomy to reproduce the movements of the stars in order to display the moon phases. A lot of wheels and pinions are used in order to show with accuracy the moon phases.

Craftsmanship :

Blued hands:
Bluing occurs when the surface of a steel component oxidizes upon exposure to heat. A dark blue color can be achieved at temperatures between 290º and 310º C.

Jewel:
To minimize friction in the most important bearings, jewels are affixed to the anchor pallets and ellipse. Various jewels are the bearing jewels, end-stones, pallet jewels and impulse-pins. An optimal arrangement can be achieved with 18 jewels.